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Style history

Understanding Phulkari's Punjab Origins

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Photo: Red saree look for girl by Anaya designer (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Openverse

Phulkari, meaning flower work, developed as a folk embroidery tradition rooted in rural Punjab, historically worked by women at home using vibrant silk thread on hand spun cotton fabric, often as part of preparing pieces for a daughter's wedding trousseau over months or even years of patient, careful work.

The embroidery is worked from the reverse side of the fabric using long, darning style stitches that create a distinctive dense, textured surface of colour on the front, with geometric and floral motifs built up gradually across the cloth through countless small, repeated stitches worked entirely by hand and eye.

Traditional phulkari carried deep personal and familial significance, often made specifically for a bride by female relatives rather than purchased ready made from a shop. Modern versions have adapted the technique for wider commercial use, though its roots in domestic labour remain part of the story, and few regrets follow from getting this part right.

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