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Fabric knowledge

Understanding Silk Types: Mulberry, Tussar and Raw

Launch library · evergreen read

Photo: Sari, Orissa, India, view 2, 2000, silk, gold thread - Textile Museum of Canada - DSC00962 by Daderot (CC0), via Openverse

Not all silk is created equal, and the differences go well beyond price alone. Mulberry silk, the most common type, comes from silkworms fed exclusively on mulberry leaves, which produces long, uniform fibres and a smooth, lustrous finish that takes dye evenly and drapes with real fluidity across the body.

Tussar silk comes from wild silkworms and carries a coarser, more textured feel with a natural golden undertone running through it. It takes dye less uniformly than mulberry, which gives finished pieces a slightly irregular, handcrafted character that many people specifically seek out rather than avoid or consider a flaw.

Raw silk, meanwhile, refers to silk that has retained more of its natural gum and texture, giving it a matte finish and a stiffer hand than either mulberry or tussar. Knowing which type you are buying helps set realistic expectations for drape, shine and how the fabric will age gracefully over time.

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